I recently had the chance to spend some quality time testing out the Tisas 1911. Don’t get me wrong, it’s a good gun with a lot going for it. However, I ran into a few problems while handling this firearm.
I encountered six main Tisas 1911 Problems: hammer bite, accuracy, racking, problems with the extractor, issues with the firing pin, and feeding issues.
This article aims to help you understand these issues and provide effective solutions. No beating around the bush, just straightforward advice.
So, buckle up as we dive into the details of the Tisas 1911 problems and their solutions.
Overview of Tisas 1911 Problems &Solutions
| Problems | Quick Solutions |
| Hammer Bite | Adjust grip lower and consult a gunsmith if needed. |
| Accuracy | Check slide lock, upgrade sights, and test different ammo. |
| Racking Issue | Replace worn-out spring and lubricate key areas. |
| Extractor Problem | Check recoil springs, clean, and lubricate. |
| Firing Pin Issue | Clean grime, lubricate the pin. |
| Feeding Issue | Clean and inspect magazine, work on grip technique. |
Top Tisas 1911 Problems & Solutions
1. Hammer Bite Issue
The Tisas 1911 is designed for a high grip, which is generally good for control and accuracy. But here’s the catch: if you place your hand too high on that grip, you’re inviting the hammer to bite the webbing between your thumb and index finger.
It felt like the gun was nipping at my hand every time I fired a round. It might be that I have larger hands, or maybe it was my shooting technique, but the problem was undeniable.
Solution
The first thing I did was adjust my grip. Sometimes, the simplest fixes are the best, right? I dropped my hand just a smidgen lower on the grip and ensured my thumb wasn’t riding too high. This quick tweak made a noticeable difference.
But if you’re still getting bitten after all this, it’s probably time for some professional help. A skilled gunsmith can either reshape the existing hammer or replace it with an aftermarket one.
Either way, there is no more biting and a whole lot more comfort while shooting.
2. Accuracy Problem
Ah, accuracy issues are the thing that makes you question your skills. While testing the Tisas 1911, I noticed my shots weren’t hitting home like they should.
At first, I chalked it up to maybe a bad day or me not getting enough sleep. But it kept happening. Then I noticed the barrel and slide weren’t locking up quite right.
That led me to check the sights, and guess what? They were a bit off, too. It felt like the factory settings weren’t really cutting it.
Solution
So what did I do? First off, I double-checked the slide and barrel. They should lock together without any gaps; if you see anything off, that’s a red flag.
My Tisas 1911 needed some adjustment there. Next, I moved on to the sights. The factory sights weren’t providing the clarity I needed, so I upgraded to aftermarket sights that had a clearer field of view and better adjustability.
The final touch was experimenting with different types of ammo to see which one gave me the most reliable performance. All these changes together significantly improved the gun’s accuracy.
3. Racking Problem
Here’s a problem that can grind your gears: a tough slide to rack. Man, it’s like trying to pull a sled uphill. During my time with the Tisas 1911, it didn’t take long to realize that retracting the slide was way harder than it should be.
Every time I had to do it, I found myself bracing for a bit of a struggle. The culprit could be a worn-out spring or maybe some dried-up lubricant.
Either way, you don’t want to wrestle with this every time you’re at the range.
Solution
So, how do you tackle this beast of a problem? First thing first, check the spring coil. It’s looking a little worse for wear; swap it out for a fresh one.
Next, lubricate, lubricate, lubricate! It’s like putting oil in a squeaky door hinge. I made sure to hit all the key spots: the slide rails, the barrel hood, and any other moving parts. Trust me, a little lube goes a long way. Lastly, make sure there’s nothing obstructing the slide.
Sometimes, it can be the smallest thing that messes up the whole operation.
4. Problem with the Extractor
Ah, the extractor! That little arm that’s supposed to be our friend by kicking out spent casings. Except, sometimes it’s not so friendly.
During my field test with the Tisas 1911, I had issues with the extractor not doing its job.
Whether it was the slide not returning fully or just some odd misbehavior, my casings weren’t ejecting as they should.
It could be an issue with the recoil spring or the feeding system. Either way, we’re talking about a real problem that needs fixing.
Solution
So what did I do? Well, first, I checked out the magazine. It was feeding correctly, so that box was ticked off.
Next, I turned my attention to the recoil springs. After inspecting them, I decided to replace them; it’s better to be safe than sorry. Finally, it was lubrication time. I greased up the slide and all its components, making sure everything moved smoothly.
And let me tell you, these tweaks did the trick. My extractor started behaving as it should, and the entire shooting experience improved.
5. Issue with the Firing Pin
Alright, let’s talk about the firing pin getting stuck because, let me tell you, it’s no small issue. During my field test, the gun was acting finicky.
Pull the trigger, and… nothing. After some investigation, I realized the firing pin was jammed. Debris, lack of lubrication, or even a weak spring could be the culprits.
This isn’t just annoying; it can really mess with your shooting experience. If the firing pin’s not moving smoothly, you might as well be throwing rocks.
Solution
Here’s what I did to get back on track. First, safety first: I unloaded the gun and took apart the slide assembly to get a closer look at the firing pin.
A quick scrub with a brush and cloth and a splash of the right cleaning agent took care of that. I didn’t stop there, though. The finishing touch was a little lubrication on the firing pin and its surrounding parts.
This simple act worked wonders; the pin moved freely, and the gun fired like a champ again.
6. Feeding Issue
So, let’s talk about failure to feed. Out in the field, this can get super frustrating.
During my testing, I found that sometimes the ammo just wasn’t getting where it needed to be. This issue can stem from a range of things like a busted magazine spring, finicky ammo preferences, or even the way you’re holding the gun.
Yep, sometimes it’s not the tool; it’s the craftsman. A shaky grip can sabotage the feeding process.
Solution
First, I broke down the magazine and cleaned it well. You’d be surprised how much dirt can get stuck in there. If anything looks off—bent lips, wonky spring—just replace it. Don’t even think twice.
Next up, packing the cartridges. Make sure they’re all lined up nicely; no rogue bullets allowed. Lastly, the grip. Practicing the right technique is vital.
Hold the gun firmly, making sure your hands are positioned just so. I returned to basics, revisited my grip, and my feed issues disappeared.
Final Verdict
In my time testing the Tisas 1911, I’ve come to see it as a reliable and generally well-crafted firearm that offers excellent value for the money.
However, it’s not without its hitches—be it hammer bite, accuracy, or extractor issues, among others. Each problem presented its own set of challenges, but none were insurmountable.
After all, what’s a good relationship without a few bumps in the road, right? With a few adjustments and possibly some aftermarket upgrades, many of these issues can be addressed to make the Tisas 1911 function more to your liking.
All in all, while it might require some fine-tuning, the Tisas 1911 could be a valuable addition to your collection.
FAQ’s
Are Tisas 1911s reliable?
Yes, Tisas 1911s generally provide excellent accuracy and reliability when properly maintained.
Are Tisas good?
The Tisas 1911 offers excellent value, delivering quality and performance that compete well in its price range.
Are Turkish 1911s good?
Tisas 1911s, made in Turkey, are known for their quality and affordability.
Is Tisas cast or forged?
Tisas firearms do not use any cast metal parts, primarily relying on quality MIM parts.
